Long Term Reliability
The NES has gotten a bit of a bad rap regarding its reliability, perhaps deservedly so. The good news is that bringing it back to original working is not too much of a challenge.
Read our guide: Improving NES-001 Reliability
- +5V Regulator: AN7805
- U1: RAM: SRAM 16Kb: 2K x 8-bit LH5216AD-10L, MN4216-20, CXK5816SPS-15L
- U2: 74LS373
- U3: 74LS139
- U4: RAM: SRAM 16Kb: 2K x 8-bit LH5216AD-10L, MN4216-20, CXK5816SPS-15L
- U5: PPU: RP2C02
- U6: CPU: RP2A03
- U7, U8: 74368 74HC368N or PC74HC368P
- U9: 74HCU04
- U10: CIC: 3193A
NES PCB: C1 100uF 6.3V C9 2.2uF 50V C23 1uF 50V Alps Power & Modulator PCB: C21 2200uF 25V C25 100uF 10V C23 100uF 25v C29 1uF 50V C35 1uF 50V C36 10uF 16v Mitsumi Power & Modulator PCB: C6 10uF 16v C21 2200uF 25v C22 100uF 16v C25 100uF 25v
Recapping Tip: Power / RF Module
When removing the power module, your first instinct may be to desolder all of the connections on the bottom-side of the NES PCB and withdraw the module, signal pins and all.
The problem with removing the 5 pins along with the modulator is that the PCB traces leading to the pins are only present on the top-side of the NES PCB. Since these pins can be challenging to properly desolder, you may end up removing or dislodging one of the vias. If that happens you may be missing a signal or two upon reinstallation.
Our solution is to remove the top shield on the power module and desolder the 5 pins on the power PCB instead of the NES PCB. Then desolder the ground tabs.
The benefits are:
- This leaves the signal pin connection to the NES PCB undisturbed
- The signal pin soldering to the NES PCB can be inspected and/or reworked
- Signal pin traces on the Power PCB are accessible topside, so accidentally removing a via is is a non-issue